Sugar ester, 30 g
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Sugar Ester, also known as Sucrose Stearate, is a non-ionic emulsifier used in cosmetics to combine water and oil phases. Due to its high HLB value, it is especially suitable for O/W – oil-in-water type emulsions, ideal for light creams, fluids, face milks, and emulsion serums.
It is popular in homemade cosmetics where a gentle, light and less greasy texture is desired. It is used in face creams, body milks, moisturizing emulsions, hair creams, cleansing milks, and products for daily care.
When combined with a suitable stabilizer, such as xanthan gum, it helps improve the stability of the final emulsion.
Usage
Sugar ester is suitable for cold emulsification or at low temperatures up to approximately 40°C. In practice, it is usually blended into the oil phase and then the water phase is slowly added with intensive stirring. For better stability, it is recommended to use 0.2–0.5% xanthan or guar gum in the water phase.
Solubility: Insoluble in cold oil, poorly soluble in water.
Dosage: typically 3–20% of the product's total weight depending on the recipe. Processing temperature: cold production or low temperature up to about 40°C.
pH: Always check the pH of the final product according to its type and the actives used.
Stability: For light emulsions, it is advisable to add a gelling component, such as xanthan gum.
Ingredients
Sucrose stearate
CAS Number: 25168-73-4 / 37318-31-3
EC Number: 246-705-9 / 253-459-6
Light Face Milk with Sugar Ester
A lightweight O/W emulsion suitable as a hydrating face milk. The formula uses sugar ester as the emulsifier and xanthan gum for better stability.
Ingredients
| Phase | Ingredient | % | per 100 g |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Distilled water | 76.1% | 76.1 g |
| A | Glycerin - palm free | 3.0% | 3.0 g |
| A | Xanthan gum | 0.3% | 0.3 g |
| B | Plant oil according to skin type | 12.0% | 12.0 g |
| B | Sugar ester | 8.0% | 8.0 g |
| C | Cosgard | 0.6% | 0.6 g |
Procedure
- Work with clean utensils, disinfected workspace, and clean packaging.
- In phase A, mix xanthan gum in glycerin, then add water. Let hydrate for 10–15 minutes.
- In phase B, mix plant oil with sugar ester. The mixture can be gently heated to about 35–40°C for easier processing.
- While stirring intensively, very slowly add the water phase A to the oil phase B.
- Mix for at least 5 minutes, then let the emulsion stand briefly and mix again.
- At a temperature below 40°C, add Cosgard.
- Check the pH of the finished product. For a face milk, it's suitable to aim for a pH of about 5–5.5.
- Fill into a clean airless container or a pump bottle.
Packing and use
- Packing: airless container or pump bottle.
- Use: apply a small amount to clean skin and spread.
- The product contains water, so a preservative is necessary.
- Store in a clean container, away from direct sunlight and excessive heat.
Gentle Body Milk with Shea Butter
More nourishing O/W emulsion for body care. Sugar ester creates a lighter texture, shea butter adds a pleasant nurturing feeling.
Ingredients
| Phase | Ingredient | % | per 100 g |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Distilled water | 68.9% | 68.9 g |
| A | Glycerin - palm free | 4.0% | 4.0 g |
| A | Xanthan gum | 0.5% | 0.5 g |
| B | Plant oil of choice | 12.0% | 12.0 g |
| B | Refined Shea Butter | 5.0% | 5.0 g |
| B | Sugar ester | 9.0% | 9.0 g |
| C | Natural Vitamin E | 0.3% | 0.3 g |
| C | Cosgard | 0.6% | 0.6 g |
Procedure
- Disinfect your workspace, utensils, and packaging.
- In phase A, mix xanthan gum in glycerin, add water, and let it hydrate.
- Heat phase B in a water bath to about 40°C so the shea butter melts. Do not overheat.
- While stirring intensively, slowly add phase A to phase B.
- Mix for at least 5 minutes until a smooth emulsion forms.
- At a temperature below 40°C, blend in vitamin E and preservative.
- Check the pH of the final product and adjust if necessary. For body milk, suitable pH is about 5–5.5.
- Fill into a clean container and allow to stabilize for 24 hours.
Packing and use
- Packing: pump bottle or tube.
- Use: apply to the body skin as needed.
- Because it's an emulsion with a water phase, a preservative is necessary.
- Work hygienically and take the product out with clean hands.
Cleansing Milk with Sugar Ester
Gentle O/W type cleansing milk for rinse-off use. The emulsion base helps combine water and oil into a creamy, easily spreadable texture.
Ingredients
| Phase | Ingredient | % | per 100 g |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Distilled water | 70.6% | 70.6 g |
| A | Glycerin - palm free | 3.0% | 3.0 g |
| A | Xanthan gum | 0.4% | 0.4 g |
| B | Plant oil of choice | 16.0% | 16.0 g | B | Sugar ester | 9.0% | 9.0 g |
| C | Panthenol powder | 0.4% | 0.4 g |
| C | Cosgard | 0.6% | 0.6 g |
Procedure
- Prepare clean and disinfected tools.
- First mix xanthan gum in glycerin, then add water and let the mixture hydrate.
- In the oil phase B, mix in sugar ester. If needed, heat to a maximum of about 40°C.
- Very slowly add the water phase A into the oil phase B while stirring intensely.
- Mix for at least 5 minutes until a smooth milk is formed.
- Dissolve the panthenol in a small amount of water taken from the recipe or thoroughly blend it into the cooled phase.
- At a temperature below 40°C, add panthenol and Cosgard.
- Check the pH. For rinse-off cleansing milk it's suitable to keep it around pH 5–5.5.
Packing and use
- Packing: pump bottle or clean tube.
- Use: apply to damp skin, gently massage, and rinse off with water.
- The product contains water, so preservation is required.
- For sensitive skin, it's recommended to test tolerance on a small patch of skin before use.
| How to use | Cold process, Heated |
| Unit weight (g) | 30 |
| Most common use | For creams and balms |
| Emulsion type | Oil in water (O/W) |
| Package size | 1 |
| Manufacturer | Ekokoza |
| Country of origin | EU |
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