Preparing the Surfactant: Crush the SCI in a mortar or briefly blend into a fine powder. The powder is very light, so handle gently to prevent unnecessary dust and inhalation.
Fat / Cream Phase: In a water bath, melt shea butter, almond or coconut oil, cetyl alcohol, and Olivem 1000. Heat until completely melted, smooth, and uniform.
Water Phase: In another container, heat distilled water or hydrosol together with glycerin. Both the water and fat phases should have a similar temperature, ideally 65-70°C.
Emulsification: Slowly pour the warm water phase into the warm fat phase, stirring constantly. You can use a hand whisk or immersion blender on low. The mixture will gradually thicken and become a creamy emulsion.
Surfactant Phase: Gradually add the prepared fine SCI powder to the warm emulsion. Then add Coco glucoside. Stir slowly and gently to avoid unnecessary foaming. The resulting mass should be smooth, creamy, and lump-free.
Cooling and Whipping: Place the container briefly in the freezer or in a cold water bath. As soon as the mixture starts to thicken and lighten at the edges, remove and whip with a hand mixer into a creamy paste. Do not over-whip.
Finalizing: Once the mixture cools below 40°C, add Cosgard. Mix briefly but thoroughly to disperse the preservative throughout the paste. Transfer the finished paste to a clean jar.
Shea butter and almond or coconut oil: Form a protective, softening barrier and ensure smooth razor glide without tugging.
SCI: A mild surfactant that helps the paste foam gently on contact with water and improves rinsing of both skin and razor.
Coco glucoside: Helps dissolve the oily phase, so the paste clings less to the razor blades.
Cetyl alcohol: Thickens the paste, improves its creamy consistency, and leaves the skin feeling soft.
Olivem 1000: Combines the water and fat phases into a stable emulsion. Thanks to this, the paste spreads and rinses off better than the previous anhydrous version.
Glycerin: Helps soften hairs and supports a hydrated skin feeling after shaving.
Cosgard: The preservative required for water-based products. Protects the finished product from bacteria, yeast, and molds during storage and use.
Lavender essential oil: Adds a gentle fragrance and may support the soothing effect after shaving. For sensitive skin, dose sparingly.